Ill Post photos tomorrow I'm to tired to wait for the upload

I rotate the handle. I look up and wait anxiously. Sometimes it comes most times it does not. When it doesn’t I curse this place, this country and those who run it. I lay in my bed, fan inches from my body and accept that there will be little sleep without water to wash off the days grime. When the water does come from the shower head I dance I sing and write this blog. The water here is cold, but I will never forget how much I appreciate running water. Running water is the most basic and most underappreciated luxury of the first world. I could go on about it but give it some thought and thank God you got it.

The days have started to blend together. That’s not to say there is a routine or schedule that makes one day seem like the one before. In fact nothing could be more to the contrary than a Congo routine. Everyday is different from the one before. That’s the unifying characteristic, so much inconsistency. Some days are productive others are not. Some days we nearly end up in prison, others we fly right through checkpoints undetected. Some mornings the truck starts, most mornings it needs a push start. Some days people are agreeable others they want to fight and argue over the most ridiculous of details$$. Like the water you learn to expect nothing, accept, and then over come. I had a hard time adjusting to this style, coming from America where schedules, timeliness and maintenance are of the utmost importance. But as I begin to accept the reality of this place it becomes easier and easier to deal with it. The reality is that everything you do is to feed and roof yourself and those whom you are responsible for. Its simple and it’s beautiful. There is no stress. Well Father Gabriel stresses a bit, but that’s cause he has an agenda. Everyone else just goes with the flow. People wait for hours to meet with someone. Others will wait for hours to catch a ride. People spend hours eating and talking. Everyone here is capable of work they just are not driven like we are in the United States. I said driven, but as I think I feel pushed is more the reality. Whatever, there is no doubt in my mind the people here have nothing and are just as happy as we are in the United States.

Enough of how I feel let me update you about the happenings since my last post. I celebrated my birthday here in the Congo. We had one hell of a celebration at the orphanage; the children sang song after song. They dedicated a mass for me and then some dancers from Bandundu plaid drums and delivered the most incredible performance I have ever seen(well It rivaled the cirus de ole Love Show-Beatles in Vegas). No microphones, no stage, no special affects or illusions. Just masks stilts and tribal apparel. The energy produced by the rhythm of a drum and the shaking of bead filled gourds is enough to power a city. I got the performance on video and will be sharing it with you when I return to the states. The mass gave us an opportunity to try out the new Personal Amplification system donated by the Emmaus group in Lakeland. The band is very talented, but they all need to figure out how to maintain their equipment. The children and I are growing very close. I am trying to speak French, but it is near impossible to pick up. They speak with a native dialect that makes everything sound like gibberish to me. We don’t need words to communicate. Character speaks louder than any amplification system could ever create. These children have character. They are each unique but each the same. Starved for attention and thrilled to receive the smallest bit. And I am happy to be the one to give it. I have so much fun with the children. We chase lizards, catch chickens play football and work together on various projects around the campus. They are so interested in the tools and techniques I have brought over from the first world. The power drill is the main attraction. As soon as I fire up the new generator the children watch anxiously to see if I head to the room where I keep my tool bag. When I do they come running. I have been tapping into the concrete walls to manicure some of the existing electrical wiring. The kids gather around me faces pushed up against the electric motors fan as I slice through the soft concrete. They all want to try the drill but I didn’t bring enough bits for that. I am going to leave it behind along with the remaining hardware. I hope but I don’t think its going to last long. I am trying to stress the importance of maintenance and upkeep, especially regarding the new generator we purchased. People here don’t change oil, they don’t change spark plugs, they hardwire rather than use plugs, and they use plastic bags rather than wire nuts or splices. It’s hard to take their idea of electrical engineering seriously, but it works for them. Or it works until their screw-up makes the whole block lose power. One problem with maintenance is the cost, these people are poor and cannot afford to change oil every 4,000 miles, let alone 15,000 (you should see the oil in our Toyota). Also most everything technical like the generator is sold with an English manual rather than French or Lingala. I am working on em, hopefully I can make a difference. Two other things are bugging me about the culture at the orphanage. They don’t clean up trash, they don’t even collect it they just throw it on the ground. The next is safety like the plastic bag splicing, many things at orphanage are poorly rigged and downright dangerous. If you know me you know I have very little concern for danger or safety, but this is a real concern. I have a large cut on my arm where a piece of rebar cut me as I pushed children on the swing set. I saw a young girl cut her foot wide open walking around barefoot. She didn’t know where or what did it. It could have been a number of things, glass, aluminum, rebar, rocks or the numerous food cans used for previous meals. It needs to change, and this trip will be a successes if I can.

As I was saying earlier the kids really get a kick out of technology. The other night I brought my computer to the orphanage. They were very impressed by it but not near as impressed as when I played Madagascar on it and blasted it against a bed sheet using the digital projector father brought. I assure you, you have never seen so many children so excited. I had to secure the table with the technology and shoo the children away as they tried to grasp the light passing through the dusty air. The movie was in English with French subtitles that they could not keep up with, but once again I assure you they enjoyed the movie more than any American ever has. The movie plays that awesome song “ I like to move it, move it” during the film and credits. The children have been singing it nonstop now for the last 4 days and beg me to play the movie again. I am anxious to, I need to hear a new verse. After the movie I blasted some Bob Marley and cycled through the pictures I have taken of the children. They are so excited to see photos of themselves. Then to top that off I played them the videos I have taken of them and they went off like a cherry bomb. Thank God I didn’t give them any candy that night we would have had to round them up like scattered cattle (A Land Remembered). That was the night that father finally let me sleep at the orphanage. The room I stayed in was very nice, but had been stinky and bat invested prior to cleaning by the staff. Something big crawled across my legs in the middle of the night and freaked me pretty good, but I managed to get a good night’s sleep.

Both the soccer goals are up and as I just posted on Facebook I had three teams come into the orphanage and challenge the home team. Have not put a team together yet, been to busy, but will as soon as I get the volleyball court completed. The soccer field is impressive, it aint level and it doesn’t have any grass on it, but it is a giant rectangular clearing in the middle of thick vegetation. Each rain flattens the surface a little more but it could use a few more. We are so spoiled to have grass fields in America, another thing I took for granted till I came here. But dirt makes for a more eventful sport. You don’t dare slide tackle on dirt, I tried and regret. Thanks Mom for the sandals. The children that got them love them. The children that didn’t receive a pair are anxiously waiting the consolation. We had a serious run in with the law a couple days ago. I walked into the water along the River Congo and took some video of the surroundings. Before I could make it to shore there were military and customs actively pursuing me. I took off but my efforts were futile. Then men approached me aggressively and I just about put one on the ground. I remember thanking God I hadn’t once the situation was resolved. Turned out I was in another one of their damn strategic zones. I think when you are white everywhere you go is a strategic zone, a strategy to get you to let go of some of your money. Father came and defended me and the others. The men were mean and put a good scare in me but once they believed that we were actually missionaries working at an orphanage they pulled a 180 and wanted to be pals. The most aggressive, the officer, actually asked us to help him get his kid to America. This all occurs in French so I hear it all from father once we walk away. The men said “see you tomorrow” so I assumed there would be an upcoming court date but that’s just the only goodbye fraise they knew in English. This is the case with most people here.

I had two interesting conversations this week. One was about safety. I told the rector of the convent how my family, friends and media had made this place seem so dangerous and perilous. He argued and said no America is far more dangerous. “In America you must worry about terrorism, child molestation, child abduction, suicide, murder and many other perils. Here people are too worried about feeding themselves to bother doing you or your loved ones any harm, and there is no since in terrorism, the only thing the people of Congo fear is not eating.” He’s right to; there is a giant misconception about the Congo. The story is the same in the east, I haven’t been there but everyone I talk to who has recently traveled there says its as safe as the west, just a lot more beautiful. Who’s feeding us all this bullshit? The second conversation was with father Gabriel. Can’t remember the specifics but the general idea was that this place is as much an adventure as any forest, river, desert or mountain expedition. You could never ready yourself for the events that may unfold in a day. It’s a concrete jungle. You control your fate but you don’t steer the wheel. Weather it’s driving down the road or shopping in the market every task is sure to surprise you with a little curve ball action. It’s a lot like I imagine America was 100 years ago, minus ten million cubic tons of trash.

Well I could write page after page about experiences I have had and the thoughts I am developing, but I’ll leave you now. I am climbing a large mountain tomorrow, probably around 5,000 feet. Ill take some good photos.

Keep Rocking In the Free World

I am frustrated. But rather than whine about things that will likely change I will paint a clearer picture of the setting.

The Street

As I mentioned earlier there is only one main road traveling through the heart of the city. I think it heads from north to south but since I cant get my Google Earth up and running there is no telling. There are many other roads, but they are not true roads, but rather the space left between buildings just big enough for two vehicles to pass by one another. That’s not to say there is any two way traffic. The average speed when traveling these roads is about 2 miles per hour. These roads are lined with street vendors selling everything from cigarettes, to beer, to uncooked meats (no refrigeration and loaded with flies). You must slow to avoid splashing the vendors when traveling through the numerous lake like puddles that are present in these alley ways. Besides the vendors the streets are absolutely loaded with people. Here having a functioning horn is as important as having head lights. Pity, ours took a dump today. There is trash along both the alley ways and the main road. Lots of trash. It looks like a hurricane passed through the city of Lakeland landfill and sent all the trash directly to the roads. That’s what happens when you don’t have a landfill in your city (Kinshasa). Pothole is the name of the game here and your ability to dodge them determines whether you are a winner or a loser. For the most part I feel that I am on the losing side, but for the most part I aint the one driving. The main road is pretty much the most terrible thing you can imagine as far as public transportation. But it works. Have not seen an accident yet. But I will say when I came in the first night from the airport I was pretty damn near scared. Barrel fires glow on each side of the road. Street vendors jump out at each lull and try to sell you the strangest stuff ever, one of which is tissues. The pollution is so bad on this road that the ride to and fro the orphanage literally wipes me out. I must sit idle for a half hour once I arrive at my destination. The roads suck in American standards but they are definitely one of the unique features of this city.

The Convent

The convent is an oasis surrounded by the streets that I just described. Outside the convent all the trees are cut and gone. The homes are more like tin roof sheds that my dad would have me tear down if it were in my backyard in Lakeland. The sounds of people crying, motorbikes accelerating, dogs barking and drums banging can be heard in just a minute of listening. There is a lot going on out there. And when I say out there I mean one inch beyond the perimeter of this fortress. I cant see over the 10 foot wall but like everything else in this city there are no hedge barriers, or lawn easements separating you from your neighbor. Space is limited and the inhabitants of this town utilize every square centimeter of it. The top of the fence is lined with barbed wire and certain areas have broken glass bottles cemented to the top, pretty clever. But if someone wanted to get in here it would take half a brain two legs and at least one arm. I could get over it in a minute. Now that’s not to scare you. As I mentioned I am bigger than most everyone in this city (people ask me if I am from the WWF…flattering). But the reality is these people are too poor to afford a serious knife, let alone a gun. So hand to hand I think I and the rest of you beefy Americans are sitting pretty. The premise is loaded with fruit trees. How Loaded? I have heard four Mangos crash against the roof of my building since I began writing this. There are coconuts, avocados, mangos, giant star fruit papayas, and five other fruits I have yet to identify. Not only are there plants but there are pigs, a dozen of these turkey/chicken like birds, chickens, rabbits, 3 dogs and one cat, and a bunch of mice to keep that cat employed. There are two, two story buildings on site, one is composed of the kitchen the chapel, the recreational area, the laundry, a computer room and several other rooms that are for meetings and what not. The second building houses the guests the priests (passionists) and the students/seminarians. There is a tall gate which controls the coming and going of traffic. The seminarians are responsible for opening and closing it. When you pull in to the locked gate you beep your horn several times but since our horn has failed we must ring the bell. As I mentioned it is located right in the take off path of the airport. When that UN jet flies over (biggest plane I ever seen) it feels as though a vacuum is sucking the brains out of your head through your ears. The UN plane flies about 8 times a day and once at 6:30am. There are cars, motorcycles and a tractor which arrived today… anxious to find out what for. There are two gazeboes for prayer and reflection. I have another use for them. The showers are always cold, I don’t think there is a hot water heater. There is a toilet room which houses all the toilets in the convent, two plus one urinal. That’s ok though aint waited in line yet. The water is inconsistent. Took a shower from a bucket that I have been filling up in my shower after each bath. Hope I didn’t pee in it. The showers are in the room along with a vanity and dresser. I got a fan finally but there is no A/C and there are mosquito nets draped over each bed. There is a school with a beautiful campus bordering one side of the convent. It is run by the nuns.

The Orphanage

The orphanage is a beautiful place. There are large hills surrounding it with views of distant mountains to the east. There is a neat little creek that flows through one corner of the acreage. There are many buildings on the premise. There is a school, a dining area, a seminarian housing area, a staff housing area, a priest housing building, a chapel, a few sheds and miscellaneous buildings and the dormitory which houses the children. There is a fun little gazebo with a concrete floor smack in the middle which acts as the gathering and social spot. You must travel down a long dirt road to get there, but you are not far from the neighbors when you arrive. You can see shanty homes littering the surrounding hills. The air is fresher out there and the fruiting trees are numerous as can be. There must be 20 giant mango trees on the property. Also avocados palms and lemons and once again a few I don’t know. The ground there is hard and dry but good for bare feet. Much better now that I removed the stumps and many glass pieces. There is running water, but only from one spicket by the outdoor kitchen. There is one generator that I have only seen used twice. The children are well adapted to maneuvering and playing in the dark. There is a large soccer field right beside the entrance, owned by the passionists, but it is to sandy for a good soccer field. I tore my foot up playing on it bare foot today. Behind the buildings from the entrance is a 4o foot tall raised hill. On top of this hill is where I am busy erecting both a soccer field and volleyball court. Not much erecting going on more flattening and manicuring. There is a little beach by the creek which I described earlier in my postings. Did see a fight there today. Watched a 10 year old clock another 10 year old solid, as a bunch of the locals cheered them on. I walked across the creek and through both of them in the river. Only fights I like to see are the ones I am a part of. Don’t worry they were not our boys, but I told our boys who witnessed the fight that that’s not the way to behave.

Well that about it. Time for bed.

I was wrong. These people are far harder workers than I. I chose to plow my own square yesterday and now my back and the rest of my body are paying the price for trying to keep up. No more snakes. Long days. No running water. Exhausted.

Two Great Days

Two more good days. Began yesterday with breakfast and a trip to the orphanage. The orphanage is approximately 30 minutes away. We arrived and said hello to the children. Each trip we make out there, we bring workers along who are either building bricks or doing some sort of work at the orphanage. It has become a busy place, now that the money has arrived. Our visit was brief, and we were once again on the road heading towards the tractor owned by the Passionists. The trip began with a military road block. The block is at a strategic point where the river acts as a natural barrier funneling all the traffic to the lone bridge. They spoke with us briefly and we were off. We passed beautiful flowering trees and small villages. We soon began to climb up into the mountains. The road there is very good, built by the Asians to make their transportation of minerals and what not more efficient. As we climbed our vantage increased and we began to catch views of large rolling hills and distant mountains. The views were incredible. The mountains are large but rolling. Time has taken its toll on what were once giant sky scrapping mountains. We continued up and up until we got to a large village where the health minister was speaking. Lots of PoPo. We passed and as we did the land turned to a giant flat plateau. I have seen some plateaus but none like this. We had climbed well over three thousand feet and then suddenly flat for miles and miles, as far as you could see. The land is not all that changed. I could see in the distance these giant trees towering over all the others near them. I’m not sure what type of tree they were but certainly the biggest I have ever seen. I expressed my interest and those in the car laughed and said they were all babies. I doubt that but I am anxious to see if there are larger. We made it to the village with the tractor and quickly realized that it was a no go. The front end is totally missing. It’s in repair somewhere, but things are so disorganized here and no one ever seems to know what’s going on and that is why we had to come out and check. We also were there to check some land purchased as an investment. There is a plant that grows here called cassava and it can be grown well there. Father’s sister planted some peanuts and we checked to see how many acres were farmable. Took a while. These old men were directing us all over the place as we traveled from parcel to parcel trying to measure out 40 acres. They drove me nuts, as I was the driver. At one point we crossed the road and went to a distant but large parcel. On the way out a four or five year old opened a gate for us and I didn’t think anything of it. We drove out and took more measurements. On this plateau are those huge ant piles that you see in National Geographic. They are as tall as 10 feet. Ill post a photo. Once finished we headed back towards the gate where we were approached by 3 men. One of them was a bit plump which is unusual here. Two of the men were submissive but the fatty was hollering at us in French and I could tell he was mad about something. The two old men hopped out and approached him. After a moment the man said something bad, cause I seen Father Gabriel hop up quick from the back of the vehicle and make his way out the front passenger door. The argument escalated and I thought I was going to have to lay a smack down on this big rude dude. Must not have know he was talking to a priest. The argument continued for about 10 minutes. I watched while leaned against the hood of the truck trying to luck as tough as possible. The man backed off and we left. Father does not take s*** from anyone. If they are rude and out of line he lets them know, no matter how tall or round. I was proud. After that I stalled out at a check point with an armed guard and large crowd. They all laughed. The guard was pretty intimidating caring what looked like an elongated oozier** and less than 20 years old. Father let me drive home with the understanding that he would takeover before the checkpoint. We were surprised by a random checkpoint where a well armed unit approached me and tried to speak to me in French. Wish I took a few years of French. He questioned me and asked for my information. I thought I was busted. But then to my relief father and another passenger started laughing and the guard followed. Joke was on me I guess. We gave him something of a gift and he let us pass. Ended day tired.

Today, we went to the orphanage early the children were on brake from class so they got very excited as they always do when they see the white Land Cruiser coming their way. We visited for a bit and then sent them back to class. Father had to go to the bank so he got an English teacher to help me manage the projects of the day. As I waited for the translator I helped the masons with the unfinished wall in the Henkelman Dining Hall. Everyone here is amazed to see me carry as many bricks as I do in each load. They work hard but pushing themselves is not their style. Translator arrived and we began on the soccer field. Father suggested that we let people till by hand and that is what we did. 10$ American to clear a 10 x 10 meter area of earth. Pretty good deal! Aint many people I know could do that as fast and as effective as I seen them do it today, many were women. We cleared and leveled 1100 of 9200 square meters. Metric system makes a lot of sense. I made a point to make an example of the American work ethic and busted my ass shoveling raking and plowing all that I could. I did not have a square(which was marked by sticks and rope), but rather I wondered from square to square each designated to an individual. James equity. The workers were friendly and quickly impressed by how much I was getting done. I don’t mean to gloat, but my size and strength enable me to do far more than these malnourished people can. Plus Americas reputation was on the line. We worked for hours and made tremendous progress. Towards noon I walked up to this particular plant and decided I would pull it form the ground as I had many other plants. I reached down, and just as my hand wrapped around the plants base I saw it. I immediately jumped back and hollered, scared to death that it was too late. I haven’t been here long and I had never seen one of these in person, but I knew exactly what it was as soon as I layed my eyes upon it. I don’t know how closed I came, couldn’t have been more than an inch, might have touched it, but I had a near fatal encounter with the ultra venomous viper. I have seen this thing on T.V. for years but never thought I would encounter one like this. What were the chances there were 11 people out there, thousands of bushes and the Mudele (white man in Langala) is the one that nearly gets bit. This is a wild place. As soon as they heard my reaction they all came running and had the snake dead moments later. They assumed I had been bit and I wasn’t sure at the time. I freaked a bit but I’m still breathing. I’ll look next time. Ate a great lunch prayed for thanks cause I know damn well if I had survived I would have lost my hand and never been able to canoe again. That be a tragedy. Tried to teach the children football. Not successful, turned into a game of keep away. James and the girls versus the rest of the boys. Got hot sweaty and dirty and decided it was time to take my first dip in the river. It’s more of a creak but they have cleared a nice lagoon like area for swimming. When I got to the swimming whole there were 10 little naked boys (girls use another area). I started throwing the orphanage children in the water as I do my little brother Sam. Then the naked kids wanted to get tossed which was awkward but turned into a lot of fun. I must of thrown 10 different children 40 times. I am beat. We ended the day with a quick check of the field, which looks great. As it grew dark I gathered around with the children and beatboxed with them for about an hour. I am the superior beat boxer now but these kids are far more talented and that will change by the end of my visit. I’ll get some video for you all. I said goodbye in French and they said good bye in English. It’s an awesome place, with unimaginably kind and beautiful people and it is making this one hell of an experience. Thank you to all those who supported me and continue to support with your prayers and thoughts. Ill sleep good tonight father bought me a fan.

Driving and Concrete Pouring.

Sorry to put you all off in regards to the video. The internet does not agree with us and our schedules. It will come.

James

Sorry No video.

I am trying to upload the videos, but it takes well over two hours to upload a 2 minute video. It’s worth it though, my filming is not the best but to witness the welcome that me and father received is something I need to share. It has begun to rain frequently. The rains come and go and many of the systems produce lightening. That does not keep us from achieving our goals each day. Today’s goal was to make progress on the soccer field. We did, but our progress was slowed by whomever stole the four bamboo markers that I used Saturday. People steal things here, that’s just the way it is. The bamboo did not appear to have any value at all but it must have to someone cause it was long gone this morning. This frustrated me. Another thing that is frustrating is the disregard for private property. People walk right through the orphanage and there is little we can do about it. They take the path of least resistance, right through the middle of my soccer field. That’s going to change soon though, I have a plan. Anway’s, I was rather frustrated with the theft. Father and I discussed the situation and decided that reinforcing the markers with concrete is the only effective way to avoid theft. It seemed extravagant at first, but then we realized that our defense could serve as flag holders on the field’s corners. We used bamboo poles to create holes in the concrete and then pulled them out before it had fully hardened. I got lots of help from the staff and the villagers. People are all happy to help, but they all want something from me. Mainly sunglasses. I guess word got out that there is a few extra pairs in my suitcase (under lock and key) and everyone is trying their best to get their hands on them. We shall see. The field measures 80 x 115 yards, very large. I don’t believe I had mentioned this earlier in the week but while I was playing soccer with the children a few days ago I stubbed my toe on a stump. A stump that protrudes from the ground in the middle of the common area. Today I took an axe to it and all of its friends. There are no more stumps in the orphanage and a lot more firewood. The day was cloudy, but somehow I managed to get sunburned. Sun is a lot more intense here by the equator. The day was fun and productive. There is a crew working to build bricks for the Henkelman Dining Hall. Unlike the states gathering the hardware needed for building is as hard if not harder than building itself. I had two highlights today. No, it wasn’t being served caterpillars for the 6^th day in a row. I pumped up a football and gave it to the children to play with. I told them what it was, American Football, and they excitedly agreed anxious to play with the new ball. I guess they thought it was a basketball which I assume they have never seen either cause they tried to dribble with it. Needless to say it didn’t work out to well for them. I watched as they tried to figure out what’s its use was and then after about twenty minutes of Father and I laughing I made one boy go long and through him a pass. Tomorrow we will work on the mechanics of throwing something I am thankful I learned early in life. Highlight number two. Don’t freak mom, but Father let me drive the Land Cruiser. The land cruiser is a manual, four wheel drive, safari looking, V8, with crummy shocks and two large bench seats behind both the passenger and driver seats. Its pretty awesome. Anyways Father originally let me drive it off the orphanage property with the agreement that he would take over when we got to the main road. Father didn’t think I could drive a clutch. I took off and flew down the off road trails as I always have with every truck I ever owned. This was fine for me. It wasn’t fine for the seven passengers seated behind Father and I, including three of the female teachers from the orphanage. We were bouncing, jumping and banging all over the place for the first five minutes and then one of them became upset and convinced father to convince me to slow down. I don’t know what all the fuss was about I had been sitting in the back during the last 6 trips. I continued over hills, catching glimpse’s of the Congo River on every hill we crested, beautiful. After driving through some shanty town and using the vehicles horn to shoo people out of the way I made it to that one main crazy road that I mentioned earlier in my posts. Father was on the phone, so I pulled out onto the drag, slightly apprehensive (but you should have seen my passengers). I started heading back and 26 potholes, 2 near pedestrian encounters and one luckily avoided accident later I made it back here to the mission. It’s like Nascar just way cooler. I think I earned my stripes. I witnessed chapel at the convent. The Passionists sing prayers for a half hour just before we eat and the sound fills every hall and open space of the premise. It’s incredible. They also do the same thing before bed(awaiting). Well that’s my day and a glimpse at my life here in the Congo. I could live here. Why not 20 acres of rainforest sells for 4,000 dollars. Might get sick of caterpillars though. Tomorrow we are back to the orphanage and then we journey far east to check status of the Pasionist tractor. No trailers here. If that thing is running you drive it right down the road to where you need to get it.

Over and out